There’s a tiny slice of New York in Highland Park. Town, a unique pizzeria and restaurant, serves up classy reimaginings of the ubiquitous dish while staying true to the heart of the joints that inspired it. One half pizza parlor where you can swing in to buy pizza by the slice and one half restaurant that teeters on the edge of gastro-experimental–Town offers LA a one-of-kind redeux of an old stand-by.
‘Reimaginings,’ ‘inspired,’ and ‘redeux.’ That might give the impression that this is merely a retread of greater things that have come before. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. Town is an original. Through using local sources, by tapping into local flavors, in choosing the location of the continually-reinventing-itself Highland Park, Town succeeds to be an original voice.
My meal started off with potato chips…kind of an unflattering photo, I’ll admit. But these chips have been infused with black truffle. So look at the picture again with that in mind.
Then my table dined on two pizzas. The Pig and the Fig (deferring to the menu description: prosciutto, fig and fried sage with mozzarella on a garlic olive oil base) and Town Molé (house made molé sauce, fontina cheese, roast pork, sweet corn, topped with crumbled cotija, cilantro & pickled red onion). The Pig & The Fig was savory with just the right amount of sweetness from the fig. The Molé was smoky and rich with hearty helpings of the pork–sharply and pleasantly cut by the sweet corn and pickled onion.
We didn’t even get to touch the Beauty & The Beet (with beets!) or the Jalapiña Pepperoni (with jalapenos AND pineapple). The crust was firm enough to lift but never tough or chewy.
They serve sodas from Galco’s Old World Grocery–right around the corner. And for good measure, it’s next door to Scoops and Donut Friend (which deserve reviews in their own right)!
Make no mistake, for all its New York stylings, this is very much a pizza place for Los Angeles. The flavors, the vibe, and its ties to the location make it an original. Not a rehash–but something new and still familiar.
You can purchase by the slice…but I’d recommend getting the whole pizza.
For a complete map of all locations featured in this blog, please follow this link: The Grand Appétit Map